Sunday 9 March 2014

Killer Wales Escape @ Mortimer House!

www.mortimerhousecrickhowell.com

Arriving in Crickhowell on a sunny Friday afternoon we were delighted to find a picturesque village, with all the charm of a postcard but some fairly practical amenities too. The first building we saw was a post office, then a delightful little boozery, a few bustling pubs, some independent shops and a grocers.



The village is small and it didn't take much to find our cottage, bang in the middle of town. The parking for the cottage was private and spacious and there was no issue having our party arrive in 2 cars.


We met Natasha in the road and were greeted with warm smiles and bags of welsh enthusiasm. Entering the property you were immediately hit with how nicely new and finished it was, with beautiful details.



Natasha walked us through all the 'need to knows' and offered us some advice on what to visit (and maybe more importantly what to skip).

The cottage was charming and cosy through and through. Both bedrooms nicely appointed, with good beds and tasteful, quality modern furnishings, enough to be homely but not enough to feel cluttered.







One nice bathroom with contemporary fixings and a zing of colour.



A cute lounge with french doors onto a sweet kitchen garden with table and barbeque. The cottage is filled with bright pictures by local artists all available for sale and all adding to the texture and luxe factor of the place.


On the dining table were some goodies, a large bottle of local apple juice, a loaf of village bread, some welsh cakes and a bar of divine chocolate from the chocolate shop across the street. We are talking 5 metres from the front door. We visited 'Black Mountain Gold' twice during our stay and the range of chocolates they sell is vast from port & stilton to peach & madras curry even if we stuck mainly to the likes of sea salt caramels and orange milk chocolate.


Back to the cottage, more goodies awaited us in the kitchen, local cheese, a large container of milk, tea, sugar etc... The kitchen was new and light with a door to the garden and a skylight.



It didn't take us long to settle in and it very soon became our home from home. Every day we ventured out and found we were extremely well located to reach a variety of destinations. The countryside was beautiful and serene and it was a delight to return every day to our bolt hole as the sun sunk into the hills. As we made our way from the car park (only metres away) you could see down the sun drenched high street with its pastel blocks of cottages and shops and truly feel the calm and tranquility of this place.



Even at night the village was prettily lit with life and soul around the pubs.


I would not hesitate to stay here again or to recommend this place to anyone. First world mod cons with old world charm wrapped into a ball of dreamy tranquility. The perfect escape for city types who cannot live without deep mattresses or wi-fi.


Friday 16 August 2013

Vetiver at Chewton Glen - A Countryside Re-treat

www.chewtonglen.com/restaurant

We know Chewton Glen very well and have dined there on many occasions in the last few years. The ambiance is quite magical and I must admit that I get a warm feeling every time we drive down the driveway through the stone mushrooms and over the awkward bumps. The place has a wonderful modern edge despite having quite traditional core values. This blend of classic service and formality with fashion and business forward sense will no doubt ensure its long lasting place in history. Chewton seems to really embrace the modern world, understanding today's demographic, offering quality and quirkiness, not stuffiness. If you don't know about their treehouses yet you should really look them up! The fun side of Chewton is what tells me that the place has soul and charm that really makes it great for younger adults. This is exactly the kind of place to bring your parents, but at the same time you actually want to be here with them. This is not one of those tired old country houses institutionalized into a hotel.

Sadly, the last time we had dinner here the service (not the food, the food was divine) was absolutely appalling and because I could not believe it I wrote to the hotel to tell them. We were contacted very quickly and assured this was not the norm nor was it acceptable and we were invited back. Having only ever had a great time here I was more than keen to take them up on their offer. One dish in particular lingered in my mind as I accepted the invitation... I had a baby pumpkin slow baked with truffles with a creamy and delicious filling. Not only was it beautiful and intensely flavoured it was inspired. Anyway, this post is about our latest visit and the fantastic evening we had.



We arrived and were greeted with smiles as our car was taken away. We were escorted to the bar where we enjoyed our prinks (pre-dinner drinks). We always make a habit of doing this in nice places as it is delightful to sit in the bar or lounge and take in a whole other experience before dinner. I'm all for dragging these things out. We opted for the tasting menus, and in my case the vegetarian tasting menu. We had a lovely table and the staff were sincere and attentive.
Now for the food...
Heirloom Tomato Salad, Basil Mayonnaise, Tapenade, Summer Truffle

Very nice. Good flavour which, when being served tomatoes often back fires as the desire for varieties better serves for presentation than flavour. These had been well chosen, well seasoned and thoughtfully put together. A very nice refreshing start to a summer menu and very nice to look at.

Pressed Foie Gras, Crunchy Grapes, Pineau Jelly, Almond Vinaigrette
Green Bean & Pine Nut Salad, Avocado Cherry Tomato, Croutes


My green bean salad was very nice, however the real star was my husband's dish. In particular I must mention the crunchy grapes. They were really delicious. They were partly dessicated giving a richer flesh, which coupled with the slightly salty crunch to the skin made for a beautiful and intense savoury morsel. Pineau jelly was lovely with foie gras, quite a classic combo really but executed very well and put apart from most foie gras cum sweet substance by those rather special grapes.

Stuffed Courgette Flower, Courgette & Olive, Elderflower Vinaigrette

Wild Salmon, Pea & Mint, Crushed Broad Beans, Lobster Bisque
It was my turn to have the star dish and my courgette flower did not disappoint. I truly believe this was a michelin star worthy dish. Not only was the presentation breathtaking the flavour combination was incredible. The use of olive was truly inspired as it gave a salty tang which with the green of the courgette and the floral notes from both the elderflower vinaigrette and the geranium leaves was a true celebration of summer in a completely novel way. I have never had these flavours together and I was unable to guess how they would work, but they did. Genius.

Smoked Loin of Veal, Red Cabbage Ketchup, Pickled Sunflower, Aubergine Caviar

Another really innovative dish that delivered a lot of flavour. The smokiness of the dish came from the veal and the aubergine caviar (this was very much like the lebanese smoked aubergine dish baba ganoush). The earthiness was further added to with a chargrilled artichoke. In fact the smokiness might have been overwhelming if it wasn't for the Red Cabbage Ketchup which really lifted the smoke with an acidic zing. My one criticism is the amount of aubergine. It was too much and just threw the dish off balance. As soon as I worked this out I pushed half aside and my husband followed me. A silly thing I know, but it was powerful and left the veal struggling to be heard. The elements of this dish were beautiful and intellectually it delivered, a real treat for the mind and the tastebuds.

Baked Isle of Wight Soft, Crusty Bread

The cheese course. I love cheese. This was very simple in essence, but it was also very effective. We got a whole cheese and it was lovely, a rich mild cows cheese with real butteryness, especially after it's time 'au four'. In a way, the attention was drawn away from the cheese and pulled towards the 'crusty bread'. This was a lie. This was not crusty bread, these were the most beautiful and attractive sheets of mosaiced ingredients. There were 2 varieties, one rich and fruity with nut, the other more savoury with spring onion, seeds and apricot. Both delightfully fragrant and delicate and triumphs of baking. These exsquisite fine sheets were a pleasure to eat and a wonder to look at. My eyes were studying the light and it passed through them and lit up the colours within.

Raspberry Gazpacho, Roast Red Pepper Sorbet


This palette cleanser was right up my street, the raspberry was subtle, but this new format served very well for delivering that chilled note of cucumber with the sweet but bitter zing of pepper.

Iced Honeycomb Parfait, Chocolate Mousse & Honeycomb

I have never really been a big dessert lover, but if I have one, this is what I like. Parfait is always lighter to take after a big meal and the honeycomb worked very well. The mousse was beautiful and bitter and the little hit of salt always brings out the sweet flavours for me. Very nice to eat indeed.

Mignardises
In conclusion, dinner was superb!  A great performance and every dish a pleasant surprise. The one other thing I must must mention however is the wine. I opted for the wine pairing, and it was fantastic. When doing pairings I like brave choices, I like interesting wines that will really add to the dish I am eating. Chewton is one of the few places where if you have the vegetarian tasting menu you get a different flight of wines. This to me proves their dedication for matching the wine to the food and I very much appreciate the effort. The sommelier was also well informed, thoughtful and very good company throughout the meal.

This restaurant is so close to being the best of the best. The chef has the imagination and the skill. A touch more control in the kitchen and in service would deliver them all the awards the world has to offer. Truly a pleasure to dine here. The biggest challenge Chewton faces is the size of the restaurant, being large for it's callibre and its ambition puts a very heavy burden on them. How they coordinate the delivery of the quality with the detail and the timings is a wonder to me, truly impressive!

Monday 9 April 2012

Inamo: Hi-Tech Eatery of the Future.


How badgerifical is this? A restaurant where your table is an interactive space (projected from above) where you can browse the menu, place your order... use the "chef cam" to view inside the kitchen, keep track of group and individual totals and even choose your "tablecloth" design and play games either on your own or with the other diners.

I would be lying to you if I said we came here because the food sounded great. I had read an article about this "dining experience of the future" and could not wait to have a go. I do have a reputation for being a bit of a technophobe, but the appeal of ordering your food directly off the table top, without interaction from "a humble human" was too much to resist. At first I still found myself waiting or at least expecting service, but there is the beauty of it... they cannot rush you... because you decide when to place the order!  As soon as you embrace the power of ordering the chef around without interference from the usual mediator, a whole world of opportunity opens up before you. 

I found myself ordering more than I usually would and not keeping to the conventional pace of the meal. I could order mine without waiting for the other diners, and if I wanted another drink, I did not need to raise it as an item for discussion by the whole table, I had the power to simply do it! 


The table of the future.
Cherry tomatoes with ginger, chili and avocado. This was a delightful eastern twist on an Italian classic!
One of the biggest surprises for me was when the food arrived. It was beautiful! All of it! Modern and elegant and really quite delicious! The cocktails were also a great find, and I could easily see how on a Friday night you might be in serious danger of getting quite drunk drinking cocktail after cocktail without trying to hail down a waiter (which on a weekend evening in a bar is like trying to get a taxi in the rain) and lose valuable time waiting between drinks. No maths at the end of the night either, regardless of you group size, sobriety or moral preference as the table "knows" what you ordered and your total bill.

Truffled marbled beef fillet. Another beautiful twist on a carpaccio this time.

Duck with pancakes and hoisin sauce... no cucumber and spring onion though... instead a box of fragrant herb salad.

"Vegetarian Lunch Box" Consisting of miso soup, pickles, edamame beans, rice and a vegetable curry for £14!!!

Pandan macaroon, white chocolate and Yuzu mouse with candied Yuzu and homemade coconut and lemongrass ice cream. This was exquisite and I WILL have this again. What a badger! p.s those dots are the chocolate sauce, lol.

The beautiful stone bar.
The other wonderful thing was how beautiful and serene the restaurant was. The quality of everything was superb, from the onyx panels in the walls to the bamboos sprouting out of the ground. There is no missing the Japanese influence here. The clever use of sliding panels, and the sharp modern simplicity of the lines. Even the projectors were in funky hexagonal ceiling pods that added to the futuristic appeal of the place.
My trip towards the restrooms (which were also lovely).

The sake cabinet.
The most interesting thing that you realize about this new techy restaurant experience is how much of restaurant dining culture is tied to service. The pace of your meal, the ordering in rounds, and even the discussions around who will have what. Plates were arriving at the table and I did not even know they had been ordered! This style of dining (and the games!) definitely draws out an introverted sense of self and pushes you back into a personal space where your dining choices are not democratic and the idea of waiting on someone else to get your order in is driven out by the emergence of one's own internal voice saying "order it, order it now...".